Pride in Europe’s LGBTQ+ safe haven

Having built an international reputation for championing LGBTQ+ rights, it’s no wonder that queer holiday-makers are flocking to Malta for some well-deserved R&R. But how far does legislation go in creating an inclusive environment? Alice Linehan jets off to the country to find the answer.

In 2024, Malta was declared the most LGBTQ+-friendly European country for the ninth consecutive year. This is according to the findings of ILGA-Europe’s Rainbow Map, which analyses 49 nations in seven different categories, including equality and non-discrimination; family; hate crime and hate speech; legal gender recognition; intersex bodily integrity; civil society space; and asylum. Each country receives a ranking of between 0 to 100 per cent, with Malta’s score coming in at an impressive 87.84. In comparison, Ireland holds the 15th spot on the list, with a score of 57.17 per cent.

On the surface, Matla’s ranking comes as somewhat of a surprise as the country is very religious. According to the 2021 census, 82.6 per cent of its roughly 531,000 population identifies as Catholic, and there are more churches across the island than there are days in the year.

However, there is plenty of evidence to back up Malta’s Rainbow Map reign. Amongst other things, it has laws that protect against hate speech, hate crime and discrimination, and allow for same-sex marriage and adoption, as well as legal gender recognition including for non-binary individuals. In terms of healthcare, trans people can avail of free services like gender-affirming surgeries, and anyone can donate blood provided they have only had one sexual partner in the previous four months.

But legislation only paints part of the picture. The rest is made up of the real-life experiences and attitudes of people within local communities. So, in order to really put Europe’s most LGBTQ+-friendly nation to the test, we were invited on a fact-finding mission (holiday) to find out the truth for ourselves. And what better time to do so than during Malta Pride?

2024 marked the festival’s 20th anniversary celebration. It all started back in 2004, when the Malta LGBTIQ+ Rights Movement organised the country’s first Pride demonstration, in which no more than 50 people took part. The group gathered at the Auberge de Castille and walked through the capital city of Valletta under the theme ‘Gay Rights? Human Rights!’

Since then, it has grown from strength to strength, and in 2023, Malta even hosted EuroPride. As mentioned, this year was Malta Pride’s 20th anniversary, calling for a big celebration. The festival took place from September 6 to 15, seeing locals and LGBTQ+ folk from all over the world come together for a rainbow-filled occasion. Among the events included in the jam-packed programme was an exhibition, community testing session, drag bingo night and quiz, as well as a special Pride march and afterparty in Gozo, one of the 21 breathtaking Mediterranean islands that make up the Maltese archipelago.

The festival culminated in the Malta Pride parade on Saturday, September 14. Attendees gathered at the iconic Triton Fountain before the march kicked off at 6pm. While it was certainly smaller in number than Pride parades in other European capitals, with between 13,000 to 15,000 participants, the bustling city streets were taken over with vibrant colour, music and love.

It would also undoubtedly be in contention for being one of the world’s most scenic Prides, as it meanders through the fortified city of Valletta, itself a UNESCO World Heritage site, while also offering stunning views of The Grand Harbour. It was a truly joyous demonstration, ending at the Pride Village in St. George’s Square where a stage was erected for the main concert. The mic was shared between empowering speakers, like Malta Pride Co-President Maria Azzopardi, and local performers such as Clintess, Patricia Tibwi, Olivia Lilith and Claudia Faniello, as well as UK drag artist Miss Penny. But the celebrations did not end with the concert. It was ‘No sleep! Bus, club, another club, plane, next place’ to the Marrakech open-air nightclub for the Love Hearts afterparty by NERVE. The jungle-like venue provided even more entertainment, no more so than from Drag Race UK Season 5 star Tomara Thomas. Local queens also wowed the crowd, sending them wild as they locked lips on stage to Charli xcx and Billie Eilish’s ‘Guess’ remix. It wasn’t long then before dusk turned to dawn and the sun set on Malta Pride for another year.

The occasion certainly left me with a positive impression regarding LGBTQ+ acceptance in Malta (with the exception of a few conservative protestors and ignorant individuals that are similarly found at every other Pride the world over). But if visiting the country outside of peak queer season, would it be the same? I have found the answer to be yes, with the destination offering lots for LGBTQ+ travellers, you just need to know where to look!

While the history of Malta is in itself fascinating, from the Great Siege of 1565 to Caravaggio’s artistic contribution to St. John’s Co-Cathedral and his otherwise troublesome endeavours, there is also lesserknown queer stories of times gone by.

The Phoenicia, now a world-famous hotel, once hosted the country’s first beauty pageant for ‘cross-dressers’ in 1968. There were 12 participants, some of whom wore mops on their heads as hair, and the winner was a trans woman known as Ms Banda.

There are cruising hotspots all over the island, at the unofficial LGBTQ+ and nudist Riviera Beach, and formerly in the public toilets that now serve as a tourist information office near the Triton Fountain, to name a few.

Once inside Valletta’s limestone walls, there is queer history on every corner. From the former porn cinema City Light, all the way down (not so) Strait Street, which was previously a red light district that housed three LGBTQ+ establishments - men-only bar Dirty Dicks, a dance hall that’s now a Marks & Spencer, and the Egyptian Queen drag venue. This is just a snapshot of the fascinating stories the walls would tell if they could talk.

If you’re looking for something more contemporary, there are charming queer bars like Cafe Society and Maori, as well as the Michelangelo nightclub. Of course, Malta and its neighbouring islands also offer a range of other attractions for everyone to enjoy, encompassing jaw-dropping scenery, beautiful architecture and countless tantalising food and drink options.

To summarise, while Malta’s legislation is ultimately what earns it the title of Europe’s most LGBTQ+friendly country, it also boasts a welcoming an inclusive environment for all, and you won’t be disappointed by a trip to this Mediterranean gem.

Thank you to Visit Malta for inviting us to attend Malta Pride 2024 and to the IBB Hotel Palazzo Bettina for providing amazing accommodation. Both Ryanair and Aer Lingus operate direct flights to Malta International Airport from Dublin, and tour operators from Ireland to Malta include Sunway Holidays, Cassidy Travel and Budget Travel. All information on the Maltese Islands and things to do is available at www.visitmalta.com.