Magical Malta

If you’ve never been to Malta, chances are you’re familiar with its scenery as King’s Landing from Game of Thrones, the Medieval backdrop to Gladiator, or the sun-drenched setting for the modern classic that is, er, Madonna’s Swept Away. But gorgeous scenery aside, what does Malta have to offer the modern LGBT+ traveller?

The parliament of this overwhelmingly Catholic country, the smallest in the EU, voted for gay marriage last July, so we decided it was high time to check it out, beginning with Malta’s grassroots Pride parade and taking in some cultural highlights along the way.

One of the great things about Malta Pride is that it feels local. While having businesses on board to lend their support reflects the level of acceptance around LGBT+ lives on the island, the event hasn’t lost its sense of community. “Pride has been on a bit of a journey in Malta for the last four years,” Eamonn Gomez, a Cork man and one of the local Pride organisers, tells us. “We’ve been asking how can we get more of a community turnout? Before, it was more of a political protest. We had 100 people on the streets in 2014 and we knew that was too little. We had 2,500 people on the street this year. It’s great when businesses lend their brand, but how do we not become a super-polished commercial Pride? There’s definitely a balance to be found.”

The event is also super-inclusive, with banners and visibility for all members of the queer community. How can you not love a Pride parade that ends with drag queens dancing in Freedom Square?

IMPOSSIBLE TO BE BORED

But even if you’re not there for Pride, it’s impossible to be bored in Malta. Most people will want to stay in the capital Valletta, a spectacular city of steep hills and Italian-style dwellings that drip with history and decorative flourishes, from the ornate lamps to the religious iconography that adorns the façades of many buildings. If you’re on a budget, Airbnbs are plentiful, and there are many large hotels in the area, but if you’re happy to spend a little more on luxury accommodation, I heartily recommend the SU29 Boutique Hotel. With only eight rooms, it’s an exclusive experience, where the marble floors, pops of colour and funky decorations will gladden your gay heart. There are even gilded gnomes in the bathrooms to hold your towels, a cheeky touch amid the otherwise modern, chic interiors. And as I was there for Pride weekend, they served a rainbow cake for breakfast, as well as an extensive continental and cooked menu. Top marks.

“‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’ is the subversive gay artist’s largest and only signed work.

If sightseeing is your thing, you must take in the Dingli cliffs on Malta’s western coast, which stand around 250 metres above sea-level. Not only is the view of the lush blue water and sheer drop breath-taking, but the journey along the countryside roads may look strangely familiar to the Irish visitor, as the traditional drystone walls would not look out of place in much of our countryside. Happily, the climate is drier and warmer, so be sure to pack your sunscreen.

Also be sure to visit St John’s Co-Cathedral, with the most lavish baroque interior in Europe housing nine richly appointed chapels, with tombs of the Knights of Malta adorning the floors. It is also home to two Caravaggio paintings, which makes it a must for art lovers. The first is the exquisite ‘Saint Jerome Writing’ (1607-08) but the second is the most spectacular, the suitably bold and brutal ‘The Beheading of St John the Baptist’ (1608). It is the subversive gay artist’s largest and only signed work, and considered to be one of his masterpieces.

For more domestic splendour, the Casa Rocca Piccola is a stately home open to the public, and the sense of lived-in privilege remains strong, with the history, customs and traditions of the last 400 years written in the paintings, furniture and silverware of the Maltese nobility. You can also take a swift harbour cruise with A&S Water Taxis to the Birgu Waterfront to explore the Three Cities of the Cottonera District, which are still of great historical beauty, despite being heavily bombed during World War II. As with everywhere in Malta, history rubs shoulders with everyday life, enriching the experience of walking tours, or simply sitting in a café and watching the world amble by.

MALTA’S NEWEST LGBT+BAR

Bridge Bar is typical of the more relaxed nightlife, with outdoor table service beside the lapping sea, and a local band playing beneath strings of lights, but there are also events like Glitch Festival to look out for, if techno and beer is more your thing. Fancy a bop? Check out Michelangelo Club Lounge, Malta’s newest LGBT+ bar. For food and drink, enjoy delicious cocktails, cute waiters and the sea breeze at Palazzo de Piro, traditional Maltese cuisine at Nenu’s Bakery where the Rabbit Ravioli is particularly good, or a sumptuous, leisurely lunch at the Phoenicia Hotel, where the marble floors and white furniture are discreetly expensive, the service is attentive, and every dish is cooked to perfection.

So what does the future hold for Malta’s LGBT+ population? “A priority is HIV prevention and testing. And another is reproductive rights, assuring they are accessible to singles and same-sex couples,” Gabi Calleja, a prominent gay rights activist, tells me.

Given its success so far, the future of the LGBT+ community in Malta is in safe hands. Meanwhile, enjoy all it has to offer.

Ryanair flies direct to Malta from Dublin, ryanair.com